Why has Chef Shirato of Roppongi been equally dedicated to non-alcoholic drinks as to alcoholic ones since opening? — His drink philosophy

The value lies precisely in being "non-alcoholic"—setting it apart from soft drinks.

In the beverage strategies of hotels and restaurants, non-alcoholic drinks are no longer merely "alcohol substitutes" or "nice-to-have complementary items." They are increasingly becoming a key factor that influences customer satisfaction.

Chef Seiji Shirato of Shirato, a restaurant in Roppongi, Tokyo, offering a 15-course meal with small portions and multiple dishes, introduced non-alcoholic pairings—including Japanese tea—from the outset. He positions non-alcoholic drinks as "equivalent to alcoholic beverages." As a result, the average customer spend has reached the same level as with alcoholic pairings. Without beverage professionals like sommeliers, he delivers an "extraordinary experience" to customers through a philosophy unique to a chef.

Non-alcoholic pairings that thoughtfully complement the "small portions, many dishes" approach to creating extraordinary dining experiences

Hakudo offers a multi-course meal featuring 15 small dishes. Seafood makes up 90% of the menu, with most ingredients sourced from the premium selection at Toyosu Market.

"The small-plate style allows guests to enjoy a variety of flavors. Similarly, with drinks, rather than stopping at just one glass, we can provide a richer experience by changing them to complement the progression of the meal," says Chef Shirato.

Since opening, we've offered nearly 20 varieties of tea, pairing them with both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. Our offerings are constantly evolving. For instance, Apoptosis' Wazuka Green (bottled green tea from Kyoto's Wazuka region) pairs well with umami-rich seafood like nori or kombu, thanks to its glutamic acid-derived flavor. Mugwort (bottled mugwort tea) evokes grass mochi, making it a perfect match for desserts. QINO SODA's Cedar - Foot of Mt. Fuji - (cedar sparkling water) complements smoked dishes. It's enjoyable to consider these food and drink pairings."

Create a sense of exclusivity by referring to them as "non-alcoholic beverages" rather than "soft drinks."

Chef Shirato emphasizes the difference between "soft drinks" and "non-alcoholic drinks."

Soft drinks are beverages even children can drink. They evoke the image of sweet drinks like cola or orange juice. On the other hand, non-alcoholic drinks are for adults. I believe they occupy the same position as alcohol and can be priced competitively.

This approach extends beyond mere pricing strategy. At Hakudo, a tea pairing course is also offered for ¥11,000, achieving a customer spending level comparable to that of an alcohol pairing.

Some guests drive here, while others are pure foodies who come to savor the cuisine. Many also seek the experience itself, saying things like, "This is my first time trying tea pairing," or "What a lovely bottle." Non-alcoholic drinks are no longer just substitutes for alcohol; they are becoming reasons to choose them in their own right.

A diverse drink menu crafted from the perspective of a chef, not a sommelier

When introducing non-alcoholic drinks, Chef Shirato prioritizes whether customers will be satisfied.

Increasing the average customer spend is a result, not an objective. What matters is that customers leave satisfied with their meal and become fans of Shirato. Rather than chasing short-term profits, building long-term relationships is crucial.

Hakudo does not employ a sommelier. Chef Hakudo himself tastes various beverages, selects drinks that pair well with his cuisine, and serves them.

"I understand my own cooking best. That's precisely why I want to choose the drinks myself. For example, I intuitively know that QINO SODA's Cedar - Foot of Mount Fuji - (Cedar Sparkling) pairs perfectly with this dish. And when I discover an interesting drink, I sometimes create a dish to match it. It's just like wine."

The approach of constantly exploring and discovering drinks that pair well with food lowers the barrier to introducing non-alcoholic beverages. Using the chef's own sensibility and knowledge of their cuisine, they can provide a valuable beverage experience.

However, Chef Shirato adds:

Those serving drinks need to possess knowledge about them. For instance, being able to discuss tea origins, production methods, and the stories behind them enriches conversations with customers and creates a sense of the extraordinary. In an era where non-alcoholic beverages stand shoulder-to-shoulder with alcoholic ones, the server's deep understanding is essential. I found the perfect match for me through conversation with the Apoptosis staff, asking them about the drink's origin and characteristics.

A supple pairing like natural wine, blending kombucha with Chinese spices

Chef Shirato evaluates the non-alcoholic drinks developed and curated by Apoptosis as being "positioned like natural wines."

"Particularly interesting is 'fog,' a kombucha made with Shirakawa tea from Gifu Prefecture. It's both a tea and has a mocktail-like vibe that makes it enjoyable on its own. I find it pairs well with spicy Chinese-style dishes and sweet desserts."

As an actual usage example, the following combinations were cited.

● Brandy-marinated button shrimp

The scent of fog resonates with the flavor of brandy.

● Charcoal-Grilled Eel with Spicy Chicken Sauce

When paired with a spicy sauce, it enhances the complexity of the dish.

● Smelt Fritters ~ Fragrant with Five-Spice Powder ~

Complementing the spice profile of Chinese cuisine, it harmonizes the lingering finish.

Apoptosis's non-alcoholic drinks aren't just 'tea' or 'kombucha'—they have a strong identity as beverages. That's precisely why they expand your culinary possibilities. Even among those who drink alcohol, some customers enjoy a few glasses of wine before switching to non-alcoholic drinks partway through. I believe the quality here allows us to flexibly accommodate such preferences.

Non-alcoholic beverages are items that enhance the dining experience.

What we can learn from Chef Shirato's practice is that non-alcoholic drinks are not merely complementary items, but can become excellent supporters of the dining experience at a restaurant.

【Chef Shirato's Key Points】

1. Pricing Strategy: Offer as "non-alcoholic beverages" rather than "soft drinks," at the same price point as alcoholic beverages

2. Customer satisfaction comes first: Customer spending per visit becomes achievable as a result. We prioritize long-term customer relationships, engaging in dialogue with customers while providing memorable drinks

3. Pairing is possible even without a sommelier : The chef's own understanding and sensibility of the cuisine enables the gathering of drink information and selection.

4. Knowledge and Storytelling: When providers can share the origin and background of drinks, it enhances the dining experience value

【Apoptosis Products Currently Used by Chef Shirato】

1. Apoptosis Still Japanese Tea (Oolong Tea/Hojicha/Yomogi Tea): Crafted with a luxurious blend of tea leaves carefully selected from Shizuoka, Niigata, Miyazaki, and across Japan, extracted using the Cold Extraction® method. A bottled tea that allows you to enjoy the authentic aroma and flavor of the tea leaves in a wine glass.

2. QINO SODA (Kurogane - Hakusan Foothills - / Sugi - Fujisan Foothills -): A brand born to protect Ishikawa Prefecture's forests. This sparkling water directly expresses the natural aroma and sweetness of wood without added preservatives or sweeteners. It's recommended for toasts or as a premium sparkling water.

3. fog (sencha / hojicha / tonohinoki): A kombucha that highlights the refined flavor and rich aroma of Shirakawa tea from Gifu Prefecture. Shirakawa features tea fields stretching across mountainous terrain, where temperature fluctuations create dense fog—inspiring the bottle's name. A soothing brew with gentle sweetness and a subtle effervescence.

The possibilities for non-alcoholic drinks continue to expand. To borrow Chef Shirato's words, the era where non-alcoholic drinks stand shoulder to shoulder with alcoholic ones is just around the corner.

If you'd like to learn about the latest trends in non-alcoholic drinks or try our recommended beverages, please contact us.

Apoptosis develops, curates, and provides a diverse range of non-alcoholic beverages for hotels and restaurants. Feel free to contact us via the Contact page.

Store Information:

SHIRATO

https://www.shirato.tokyo/

Etoile Roppongi 2F 4-4-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0032

Special thanks to Chef Seiji Shirato for his cooperation with this interview.

Date of Collection: November 21, 2025