What Is Terroir? Exploring Japanese Tea Terroir Through Landscape and History【#005】
- amika
- Jul 30
- 7 min read
Updated: Jul 31
The word “terroir” is often heard in the world of wine.It is commonly translated as the unique character of a place, shaped by its climate and soil.
But for Lawrence Nakamura—a sommelier who has spent years exploring the nature of taste—terroir is not something that can be summed up in a single phrase.
Perhaps terroir is more than just environmental factors.It may also encompass the maker’s history, philosophy, aesthetic sense,and even the imagination of those who receive it.
In this article, guided by Lawrence’s words,we set out on a journey to ask: What is terroir, really?
Terroir: A Presence That’s Elusive Yet Deeply Felt
nterviewer:___“This wine carries the scent of the land it came from.”I’ve heard people say things like that.Is that related to the idea that a wine’s flavor can reflect the character and background of its origin—what we call terroir?
Lawrence:The word terroir comes from French, derived from terre, meaning “land.”It refers to the idea that factors like:
climate
topography
soil
and farming methods
can all influence the flavor of what’s produced there.
The distinctive aromas, flavors, and nuances of a place—they certainly exist.And the way they’re expressed can change dramatically depending on the choices of the maker.
You often hear the word terroir in conversations about wine and cheese.
But I rarely use it when speaking with customers.That’s because I feel terroir is a deeply layered concept—one that can’t be fully captured with a single word.
To me, terroir is something that both exists and doesn’t.It’s not a fixed idea, but rather a starting point—an invitation to explore.
Flavor Is Formed by More Than What Meets the Eye
Lawrence:The idea of terroir might actually be easier to understand if we compare it to painting.
Take a landscape painting, for example.It may seem like a simple depiction of the natural scenery in front of the artist.
But everything—the movement of the brush, the feel of the chair they were sitting on,the quality of the paint, the artist’s emotional state—all of it influences the final work.
Interviewer:___If the chair had been uncomfortable, perhaps the artist wouldn’t have been in the right mood,and the painting could’ve turned out completely differently.
Thinking about it that way, it feels like it’s not just the painter, the canvas, or the paints that shape a piece,but everything surrounding the act of creation intertwines to give the work its unique character.
Lawrence:Exactly. It’s not just the natural environment.Human activity, tools, mood, historical context—all the invisible elements play a role in shaping flavor.
Behind the word terroir lie countless overlapping layers like these.
Terroir Begins with Memory: Nature, History, and the Land
Lawrence:Why did that crop take root in that particular land?What kind of history has it gone through?
The flavor of agricultural products isn’t shaped by the natural environment alone.It’s also deeply connected to people’s tastes, to culture, to memory.
Terroir is an archive of the land—a vessel of memory where nature and human experience are intertwined.
Interviewer:___Is the concept of terroir most commonly discussed in the context of wine?
Lawrence:Actually, terroir exists in Japanese tea as well.In fact, this time I’d like to share a few examples from Japanese tea,including some of the tea products we’re working on here at Apoptosis.
Japanese Tea Terroir Begins with Hama-cha
Lawrence:There’s a type of tea called Hamacha—
There’s a type of tea called Hama-cha (hama meaning “beach,” and cha meaning “tea”).
After harvesting, the tea leaves are sun-dried by the seaside, naturally absorbing the ocean air.
This tea carries a unique character with a gentle hint of sea breeze.It offers a mellow umami flavor,layered with a deep, complex taste that might remind you of clam broth.
Interviewer:___It’s almost as if the tea becomes a filter, carrying with it the presence of the seaside.
Lawrence:When brewing this kind of tea, we think about how to make the most of its distinctive “saltiness.”
How can we let the air the tea has absorbed express itself in the most natural way?In a single cup, even the scenery of the shoreline seems to dissolve into the brew.
Japanese Tea Terroir in Practice: Chagusaba’s Wild Fragrance
Next, I’d like to introduce a traditional cultivation method still practiced in Shizuoka, known as the Chagusaba method.
In this method, wild grasses such as susuki (pampas grass) that grow around the tea fields are cut and spread over the ridges between tea plants.It’s called the Chagusaba (tea-grass) farming method.
This technique doesn’t just gradually transfer the scent of wild grasses into the tea leaves—it also brings multiple benefits:
suppressing weeds
retaining soil moisture and warmth
replenishing organic matter
Together, these effects help preserve the quality of the soil.
When you drink tea grown using this method,you may notice a soft, wild fragrance—like bamboo grass or pampas grass—gently rising through your nose.
It feels as if the tea leaves are holding a memory of the entire landscape.
When brewing, the key is how to preserve this “mountain aroma.”By lowering the water temperature slightly and taking time to steep,you can gently draw out a soft, well-rounded fragrance.
Japanese Tea Terroir Case ③: Wazuka — Where Sun and Mist Shape Aroma
And finally, let me introduce the tea of Wazuka, a small town in Kyoto.
Wazuka’s tea fields stretch across sloping hillsides, with a narrow river flowing below.
On early mornings, mist blankets the area, gently slowing the rise in temperature.This allows the tea to retain its umami and aroma—a flavor shaped by the layering of terrain and climate.
The tea leaves from Wazuka, bathed in ample sunlight,take on a soft yellow hue and develop a floral fragrance with a nutty richness.
When brewing this tea, care must be taken not to disrupt its delicate aroma.As quietly and gently as possible—that is the guiding principle.
It invites a moment of reflection:“What temperature will bring out this fragrance at its most beautiful?”
In facing the tea this way, we enter a space of quiet deliberation,where each brewing decision becomes a form of expression.
And from there, how we deliver that fragrance—is a world shaped by aesthetic sensibility and thoughtful trial and error.
Expressing Identity Through Japanese Tea Terroir
Interviewer:___As I’ve listened to your words, I’ve begun to see just how much thought and sensitivity goes into brewing—not just growing—tea.
Lawrence:Tea doesn’t only reflect the landscape in which it’s grown—it also reveals completely different expressions depending on how it’s prepared.
How do we deliver the aroma and flavor we perceive?There’s no single “correct” answer.
It’s a quiet process of trial and error, guided by intuition and experience—like listening closely to what the ingredients are trying to say.
As providers, we carefully consider what kind of expression is most appropriatewhen offering each cup of tea to our guests.
Interviewer:___So it’s about designing how to deliver the tea, while staying in dialogue with the ingredient itself.
Lawrence:Exactly.The final taste that emerges is deeply infused with the aesthetic intent of the producer—their desire to share a particular flavor experience.
For those of us in the role of delivering that deliciousness,we seek to understand the background in which the ingredient was born,and ask ourselves how we can best convey its full appeal.
For example, when crafting a bottled tea,we adjust the temperature and duration of extraction with precision, depending on the tea leaves.We also choose whether the tea should be sparkling or still.
Each of these choices becomes a tool to express what makes the tea truly itself.
Terroir Is Not a Destination, but a Journey of Sensing and Understanding
Lawrence:Terroir isn’t something that comes with a clear answer—it’s not as simple as 1 + 1 = 2.
Rather, it’s a force that moves both the maker and the drinkerto feel more deeply, to want to know more.
Yes, there are natural environments and farming methods.But those alone don’t become flavor.We must also sense the invisible elements—history, culture, human activity, aesthetic intention.
For example, you might first think, “This tea tastes good.”Then, after learning about the land it came from,you may find yourself experiencing it differently the next time you drink it.
If someone tells you, “There’s a hint of citrus,”you may then notice that nuance the next time you taste it.In fact, some Japanese teas do contain components that give off citrus-like aromas.
Knowledge can guide the senses,and the senses can awaken a hunger for knowledge.
It’s within this cycle that the beauty of terroir reveals itself.
As those who offer food and drink,we sharpen our sense of aesthetics and pour our intention into each creation,always asking ourselves how to convey the story and charm behind the ingredient.
In that ongoing process,something like terroir quietly lives and breathes.
It may not be about “finding the right answer,”but rather about feeling, reflecting, and feeling again—an endless adventure.
And because it’s an adventure,it’s not just about reaching clarity or resolution—there’s also joy in embracing the journey itself.
That space for reflection,that openness in life we can touch through tea or sake—that, too, is part of what makes the idea of terroir so compelling.
Editor’s Note
In this article, we explored the theme of terroir through a conversation with Lawrence.
At first, the world of terroir seemed highly specialized and difficult to grasp—but I came to realize that it’s okay to begin simply:to taste freely, to feel what comes naturally,and to deepen our discoveries through small exchanges between experience and knowledge.
We’ll continue to share pieces that invite you on a journey of aesthetic exploration.Stay tuned for the next installment.
About the SpeakerYoshihito Lawrence NakamuraSake Expert / Sommelier
With expertise in both sake and wine, Lawrence has worked in restaurant launches, event planning, and as an advisor for food and beverage brands. He joined Apoptosis in 2024.
His accolades include “Best Sake List in Japan” and “Most Original Wine List in Asia,” among many others both in Japan and internationally.
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