What Is Terroir?—Deconstructing the Concept Beyond Alcohol and Non-Alcoholic Beverages

Mako Ozaki
5 days ago
5 min read

Series | A Sommelier's Thoughtful Take on Non-Alcoholic Drinks: Part 1

A series by sommelier Yoshihito Nakamura-Lawrence—winner of international awards such as “Best Sake List in Japan” and “Most Original Wine List in Asia”—in which he analyzes non-alcoholic beverages through a professional lens. The theme of the first installment is “What Is Terroir?”

Terroir refers to the unique character of a specific region, born from the interplay of land, climate, human craftsmanship, culture, and experience. Originating in the world of wine, this concept has now expanded to encompass many beverages, including tea, coffee, and sake. In this article, we will explore its structure, starting with its etymology.

Text by Sommelier Lawrence Yoshihito Nakamura

1. What Is Terroir?—A Look at Its Etymology

2. The Rhythm of Nature Is the Very Time of the Earth

3. Nature Alone Cannot Create Wine—The Artistry of Humans

4. Terroir = Nature + People + Technology + Culture + Experience

5. Enjoying It Even Even If You Don’t Fully Understand It—The Romance of Terroir

1. What Is Terroir?—A Look at Its Etymology

Lately, in my work with tea, I’m often asked, “Does tea have a terroir like wine does?” In fact, in recent years, the term “terroir” has come into use across a wide range of beverages and foods, including tea, coffee, chocolate, and cheese. We’re seeing this word more and more in brand descriptions and marketing materials. That’s precisely why I’d like to start by considering the question: “What is terroir?”

The word “terroir” is French, and its etymology lies in “terre” (earth or land). Going further back, it derives from the Latin “terra” (earth). Originally, it was a term referring to cultivated land in a village or region, and it appears in medieval texts with that meaning. Later, it spread worldwide within the wine industry as a concept representing “the unique character produced by a particular land.”

While the concept of terroir is subject to academic debate, I personally feel that terroir “exists.” For me, terroir is the place where the majestic rhythms of nature intersect with human artistry. It is a single sip that exists at the very edge of the Earth’s timeless flow. That fleeting moment when I bring it to my lips—at that intersection, there is indeed something that makes me feel there is “something” there.

2. The Rhythm of Nature Is the Very Time of the Earth

The rhythm of nature I speak of here is not merely the changing of the seasons. It is the flow of time that has continued from the Earth’s birth to the present day.

Take sake, for example. One of the key factors that greatly influences the taste of sake is water. However, water does not simply spring forth from the ground. The properties of water are influenced by the geology of the land, and that geology, if traced back far enough, was shaped by the Earth’s geological activity.

The Japanese archipelago is an island arc formed along a subduction zone, and many of its mountains were created through volcanic activity and uplift. As a result, an environment has emerged characterized by numerous mountains, short rivers, and a rapid water cycle—a combination that shapes the unique characteristics of Japan’s water.

The current topography of the Japanese archipelago has also been shaped over the course of Earth’s long history. The geological foundation of the Japanese archipelago was formed approximately 200 to 100 million years ago. Between 20 and 15 million years ago, the Sea of Japan expanded, separating the archipelago from the continent. Since then, from about 5 million years ago to the present, volcanic activity and uplift have formed mountains and basins.

In other words, behind every cup of sake lies a span of time ranging from millions to hundreds of millions of years.

3. Nature Alone Does Not Create Sake—Human Artistry

However, sake cannot be created by natural history and conditions alone. It is humans who use that water, cultivate the rice, guide the fermentation, and express it as flavor. That is why I believe terroir is the place where the conditions created by the Earth intersect with human artistry.

The important point is that the existence of terroir is not the same as the existence of a product that expresses it. Nature exists. However, it is humans who express it as flavor and form. Whether or not it can be expressed depends largely on human endeavor.

Furthermore, the existence of terroir, the existence of something that expresses it, the sensibility to perceive it, and the act of understanding it may all be matters of different dimensions.

Suppose we think of terroir as a painting depicting nature. It is humans who paint that picture. In that case, to put it extremely, even the comfort of the chair the painter is sitting on might influence the painting. Yet we cannot know the extent of that influence.

Furthermore, the environment in which the artwork is stored and the infrastructure that protects it are also crucial factors that underpin its value. Yet we rarely speak of these conditions directly as “terroir.” In reality, however, a single product is supported by countless such conditions.

4. Terroir = Nature + People + Technology + Culture + Experience

So far, we have discussed terroir as a single, broad concept, but to better understand it, we can also break it down into its constituent parts. In my view, terroir can be understood as an interplay of the following elements:

However, it is probably impossible to fully understand all five of these elements: the rhythm of nature, human activity, technology, culture, and experience. All of these overlap to create a single sake or wine.

5. Enjoying It Even Though We Don’t Fully Understand It—The Romance of Terroir

Understanding is not simply about finding answers. Rather, I believe that the more deeply we contemplate something, the more the contours of what we don’t understand become visible, rather than what we do. And ultimately, isn’t it about accepting that reality?

That is precisely why people can enjoy the unknown, even without fully understanding it. I believe that is the true meaning of pursuing terroir. The moment when we savor the majestic rhythm of nature and the essence carried by the Earth’s long, long history. The place and time where everything converges. Even if I cannot put all of that sentiment into words, I would like to call it romance.

Author Profile

Yoshihito Nakamura

Sommelier

After training in Sydney, he led the launch and operations of a soba kaiseki restaurant as its manager. He has received international awards, including “The Best Sake List in Japan 2020,” “Most Original Wine List in Asia 2020,” and the “Asia Star Award 2021.” Currently, while serving as the head of service and beverages for a Tokyo-based food and beverage company, he is also working on the development of non-alcoholic beverages, including Japanese tea drinks, at Apoptosis. He enjoys the warm sound of vacuum tube amplifiers.

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